Day 8: Chandrataal to Kaza (Via Kunzum Pass 15000 ft)
As we started early morning, it was time to say goodbye to river Chenab which was our companion from Kishtwar in the journey so far. The road took us over the Kunzum pass at 15,000 ft. and away from the Chandra valley towards Spiti. Kunzum La separates the Chandra valley from Spiti and offers some of the most beautiful views the planet has to offer. We were simply taken aback.
By now we were wandering deep in the Himalayas and were in awe of these gigantic mountains. But mesmerizing they may look, the terrains here are unforgiving. Life is very different at high altitudes and you can’t help but notice how the people here have adapted to these harsh conditions. Rocks, boulders and what not, luck plays a crucial role while motorcycling here. Beautiful views and danger lurking around are what makes this road a biker’s dream
Kunzum La made sure we didn’t miss river Chenab for long and introduced us to a new partner, ‘The Spiti River’. Spiti originates from Kunzum Range, at a height of 16,000 ft. above sea level and later joins Sutlej descending from Shipki La pass in China. But unlike the ferocious Chenab, Spiti is calm and barely makes its presence felt, in a way reflecting the Buddhist philosophy. An epitome of beauty, Spiti is not just a river, in these barren mountains, it offered a center stage to the Buddhist culture which has thrived and evolved here for centuries.
From culture and cuisine to the landscape and weather, it is one of those roads which can make you look at the world differently, only if you have eyes to actually see it.
My words will never be able to describe her beauty, that was my first impression of Spiti.
Even though it was extremely cold, we started early in the morning when crossing streams is relatively easier. It took us about 9 hours to cover 100 Km and reach Kaza.
Day 9: Kaza, Spiti valley
Kaza is a bustling Himalayan town with a charm of its own. It is the biggest and most important centre in Spiti. After spending two days in tents we badly needed a hot water shower and some rest, so we decided to stay here for a day.
There are plenty of cafes and restaurants that offer a variety of food options in this beautiful town. But what we most liked about Kaza was the hospitality of the people there. We found the most welcoming, accommodating and warm people in Kaza. In a way, the warmth of the people in Spiti valley makes living in the cold and dry climate tolerable.
There are many monasteries to visit around Kaza but Tangyud and Key monastery are the most beautiful. Spiti Valley is said to have submerged in the Tethys Ocean millions of years ago and one can catch a glimpse of the prehistoric era. In fact, you can still easily find fossils of sea creatures scattered in Langza.
Day 10: Kaza, Spiti valley
The plan was to explore Kaza and areas around it today. We grabbed a quick breakfast at our hotel and went about. We first went to Key Monastry which is located on a mountain giving you an aerial view of the entire Spiti valley. You have to climb steps but the views are worth the effort.
Next was Langza village which has a giant Gautam Buddha statue overlooking the mountain ranges with the village at its base. After spending some time here, we reached Hikkim village, known for the highest post office in the world. You can send a post card from this post office to your hometown, which is what we did. This how the post office makes money.
There is a small café adjacent to the post office for you to have a hot cup of ginger lemon tea and Maggi
Places to see:
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Key Monastery: Biggest monastery and religious training center for Lamas in Spiti valley
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Tangyud Monastery: One of the highest altitude Gompas
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Langza village: Known for its huge Gautam Buddha statue
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Kibber: Known for Kibber wildlife sanctuary, home to Snow leopard, Ibex Bharal and more
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Hikkim Village: Known for world’s highest post office
The time you spend in Spiti valley will always be etched in your mind. This was a time when relatively not a lot of people knew about this place, the way Leh was in 2010. After having taken in all the great vibes, it was time to commence the last phase of our journey.
Day 11: Kaza to Tabo via Dankhar Monastery (Detour)
While we did leave early, a landslide meant we could not reach our destination in time. We spent around 4 hours stuck behind a huge line of vehicles with a JCB trying to clear the landslide at a distance.
We decided it was best to take a halt at Tabo and leave the next day. This also presented us with an opportunity for us to visit Tabo monastery which was not part of the plan. Tabo monastery is known for its rich collection of scrolls, manuscripts, well-preserved statues and murals on its walls. A history buff will definitely dig this place. We found a small hotel near the road called Troga and slept for the night.
Day 12: Tabo to Kalpa (Via Gue village (Detour), Sumdo, Nako, Rekong Peo)
The stop at Tabo was not planned which meant we had to cover as much distance as possible today. We got up for an early morning start since we intended to visit Gue Monastery. This was for 2 reasons, one to see the famous Mummy of Sangha Tenzin and the other to reach as close to the Indo-China border as possible. You have to take a detour to visit this place.
There is an ITBP outpost just beside the monastery. We had a brief chat with the Soldier at the post about the place and Indo-China border. He pointed to the mountain and indicated that China is just on the other side, he was posted for a week at the top of the mountain, then for a week at this post and so on.
We reached Kalpa by evening and found a homestay managed by an elderly couple at Rs500.
There was another gentleman staying with us who was on a solo bike ride. In the evening over a few rounds of Old monk we exchanged our stories of the trip so far. He was heading towards Kaza. This was his 5th visit in Himachal. He was surprised that the two of us took the Kishtwar to Killar route. After a hearty meal of roti, potato salad and dal-rice, we went for a sound night sleep.
We had planned to leave for Chitkul the next day.
Day 13: Kalpa
Unfortunately, when I woke up, I found that Hari was under the weather. He had a mild fever which meant we could not proceed with our plan. He took a crocin before breakfast and went to sleep. I laid back and went through the photos of the ride so far to pass some time. By lunch, he was feeling much better. Since half the day passed, we decided to rest here for the day and leave tomorrow to Chitkul.
Day 14: Kalpa to Chitkul via Rekong Peo, Sangla
Hari had withered the fever and we were ready to continue our ride. Today, we had to reach Chitkul. From Kalpa, the road was entirely tar and it was a joy to ride on this route. We took the exit at Karcham and joined the Sangla Chitkul road. This route welcomed us with snowcapped mountains, lush green meadows and a cool 20 degrees. This was a welcome change compared to the hot, dry climate we had encountered in the first leg in Spiti valley.
We reached Chitkul at noon and checked-in at Samaa resorts
It’s the last village on this route. The place is run by a young couple who are adventure enthusiasts. They noticed our bikes and we had a long conversation on bikes, Himachal, why they chose to set up this establishment. That is one of part of riding a bike which is constant, the endless conversations you have with people from different walks of life.
The wife was kind enough to make Shev Puri for us since she knew we were from Maharashtra. Chitkul was the final location, from tomorrow it was going to be an entire day of riding from morning till evening.
Day 15: Chitkul to Matiana via Rampur Bushr
With an early morning start we rejoined back on NH5 We had only one destination in our mind. Although the road conditions improved, the constant traffic of trucks carrying supplies required all our focus. Thankfully, we did not face any issues and reached Matiana at the expected time.
Day 16: Matiana to Ambala Via Shimla, Kalka.
Last day of the ride and as with any ride, it required us to be on the razor’s edge to reach Ambala cantonment. We reached Ambala cantonment by 6:30PM. We booked our bikes to be transported to Pune. We now had to reach Delhi Airport early morning. We found a cheap lodge and crashed for some hours before finding a shared cab till Delhi Airport.
Day 16: Delhi to Mumbai
We made it in time to catch our flight to Mumbai, the ride had taken a toll and we were simply dozing off whenever we got a chance. After landing, Hari took a shared cab to reach Pune by evening 5PM. Our bikes took another day to reach Pune on Indian railways.
Summing up Spiti bike ride
Riding in the Himalayas is every biker’s dream and once you visit this majestic mountain range, you want to come back for more. You can plan as much as you want but there will be situations that will test your nerve and grit but the experience will be etched in your memory. I did this ride 4 years ago but can remember almost every day’s events well enough to write about them.
Things to remember if you are riding in the Himalayas.
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Your bike is your best friend, get to know it. How? Ride it as much as humanly possible before taking it to the Himalayas
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Carry spare tubes, clutch wires, tool kits, first aid kits and, any other parts that you feel cannot be bought from a local mechanic
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Carry a tent and sleeping bag. A landslide may force you to stay at an unwanted location, you will need this gear to rest
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Start early, avoid riding at night as much as possible
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Eat heavy breakfasts, carry sufficient water to keep yourself hydrated. Top up your water at local shops
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Study the route, pick locations where you want to stop and keep a reasonable travel distance per day. Remember, the average riding speed won’t be on the higher side
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Keep spare days in case you have to take an unknown halt, we had 3 of them
This ride has been one of the best experiences in my travels, especially Kishtwar to Killar and the road to Chandrataal. The mighty Himalayas showed me how small and how difficult life can be for people living here. A lot of my friends have taken to bike riding recently and I hope I will be able to do this route once again and experience it on my Royal Enfield Himalyan!
